69 GTV go over: creature comforts coming together

If you’ve been following this thread you know I have the dash out of the GTV and an aim to make the car somewhat pleasurable to drive in the coming cold months. In this spirit I decided to remove the heater unit and clean it up. The wires to the fan motor were disconnected so I had a fear that, like the wiper motor, a PO discovered the motor was frozen with rust and simply unplugged it.

Removing the heater is easy enough, it is held by 4 8mm nuts that thread onto studs under the dash bulkhead that also act as grounding points for the dash and heater circuits. Once these nuts are removed you have to disconnect the heater hoses and either disconnect it from or bring it out together with the heater control sliders and cables.

IMG_9829You can see here that I decided to bring the control cables out with the heater unit. You can also see that the foam gasket that seals the heater intake against the bulkhead is pretty rotten. I’ll replace this with some weatherstripping meant for camper shell to truck bed edge sealing. Also note the cosy nest in here.

IMG_9830For reference so I can get the heater control back together. When you slide the lever from the blue area to the red area it pulls on the lever seen here which simultaneously opens the heater valve so hot water/coolant flows through the core and moves an air diverter so that air coming in is directed through the heater core. The more toward the red you go, the more hot water is directed through the core and the more air is diverted across the core. At maximum red the valve is wide open and incoming air can only go through the core.

IMG_9833The first test was to try and blow through the valve which, since I couldn’t blow through it in any position, told me the valve needed work. Inside it was full of white chunky deposits, some kind of leached aluminum oxide or other mineral and the diaphragm was swollen and torn so that it couldn’t lift off the inlet port (seen here as the port in the middle of the half on the right) and when pressurized it would leak. I need a new diaphragm or the whole valve.

IMG_9834Another view of the diaphragm. I bet this was commonly available and cheap at some point, but now you have to buy the whole valve assembly to fix any problems.

IMG_9832The heater assembly is built up like a traditional Bento box. The top cover, held on to the second cover by 5 spring clips, houses the air diverter and acts as one side of the two pieces that house the heater core, seen here all pooey and clogged from years of rodent fun. A quick blast with one of my favorite tools, the pressure washer got rid of all the funk and sprayed into th inlet shot a bunch of crud out the outlet. I am assuming the core does not need to be sealed since it is in pretty good shape.

IMG_9838Another view of the heater top cover, this one with the foam gasket removed. I’m going to blast and paint this metal piece before I put this back together to discourage rust.

IMG_9839This piece that looks like part of a squeegee helps seal the chamber forcing all the incoming air across the heater core. If I can’t find a squeegee of the right size I’ll fold a piece of electrical tape over this edge to help make the seal.

IMG_9836The middle and bottom of the Bento box are seen here, held together by 4 screws. The bottom houses the fan and motor and has outlets that blow hot air on your cold toes or, if the other control cable is slid toward defrost, the diverters seen here on the right direct the air up through the defroster ducts. These are a pain to put back together if you didn’t take a picture like this one to remind you how they go in.

IMG_9837Here’s the underside of the bottom. The motor has ears that rubber blocks slip over. These blocks slide down in channels in the bottom cover and wedge the motor in place. The rectangular black void by the wires is one of these channels. You just push the motor out from here. The fan is removed by opening up the tines in the spring clip that secures it to the motor.

IMG_9842Here’s the motor. To get it apart the E clip seen here needs to be removed and the roll pin driven out. You can see one of the rubber wedge blocks here.

IMG_9843Lucky me, the guts of the motor are in good shape. The only thing I need to do is grease the bearings and put it together. Reassembling this is tricky because you have to remove the plastic brush carrier/coil assembly seen here to get the armature between the brushes and then hold the armature in this position while you are assembling it.

IMG_9841All the covers got washed with Simple Green and a scrub brush. The electrical junction seen above was sand blasted, as were the motor connectors that plug into this, to help them make good contact.

IMG_9840The inside of the bottom where the motor lives. Note how nicely these plastic pieces clean up! I was tempted to put them in the dishwasher at home but resisted.

IMG_9844And of course I got carried away and forgot to take any more pictures until I was done. I used the camper shell weather stripping to seal around the heater core so that any air going through that chamber in the heater box has to go through the core. All I need no is a new valve. I’ll be calling Centerline tomorrow.

Another big deal for the GTV is that an inquiry I sent to the state of Georgia back in early August was finally answered. California DMV wanted a statement from Georgia about whether this car had a title issued or not. Without this the only way I could register it was such that I could never sell it. I know, there are lots of easy ways to register out of state vehicles, especially old cars, but I had to work with the fact that they already had a big file on this car in their system and the fees had been paid by the guy I got it from. Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I will emerge from DMV with registration documents in hand and a license plate.

GTV acquisition story.

Trying to make the wipers work.

GTV and Fiat progress.

Replacing the waterpump and carb mounts on the GTV.

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3 thoughts on “69 GTV go over: creature comforts coming together

    • Patrick,

      I only had about 2 hours between goings on and goings on. I can barely get to the Santa Cruz mountains in 2 hours.

      Ciao,
      Matt

  1. Probably too late at this point (or maybe not?) but why not just drop the core or the whole heater box with a radiator shop and have them pressure test it now? It’s a lot less painful than having to re-pull everything, and free… I’ve had the heater box out of my spider twice and it’s not more fun than a barrel of monkeys.

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